Koya San in Wakayama

[ . BACK to DARUMA　MUSEUM　TOP . ]
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::　

Koya San in Wakayama 高野山　和歌山県

Koya san is an important place in the history of Buddhism in Japan.
I visited there many years ago and will write about that unique experience later.

At the end of this page is my short essay on the
Light Offerings (toomyoo kuyoo　灯明供養).

Look at my Photo Album of Koya-San
... Photo Album Koya San

Read my Haiku about Koya-San
. Gabi visiting Koya San .




こうやくん Koya-Kun, the mascot of the temple complex.


Koyasan Sohonzan Kongobuji　(金剛峯寺 Kongoobuji)
- Homepage of the temple
- source : www.koyasan.or.jp/english

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

For a general overview of Mt. Koya and Kukai (Kobo Daishi)
by Mark Schumacher:

MT. KOYA (KII PENINSULA, WAKAYAMA)

Sacred Mountain for Shingon Sect of Esoteric Buddhism. A mountain monastery called Kongobuji was established here in 816 AD by Kukai (aka Kobo Daishi, 774 - 835 AD, founder of Japan's Shingon Sect). Kukai is also intimately associated with the Pilgrimage to the 88 Holy Sites of Shikoku. Since its founding until today, Kongobuji has served as the center of Shingon Buddhism in Japan, and Mt. Koya remains one of modern Japan's most popular pilgrimage sites. The monastery is a vast repository of Buddhist art, especially mandalas, and home to a large number of graves. Dainichi Nyorai and Fudo Myo-o are two of the sect's most revered deities. Kobo Daishi's name literally means "great teacher of Buddhism." He is also credited with creating Japan's hiragana syllabary.
http://www.onmarkproductions.com/html/holy-mountains-sacred-shrines.html

And the Pilgrimages (Shikoku Henro and more):
http://www.onmarkproductions.com/html/pilgrimages-pilgrims-japan.html

.. .. .. . . . . . . . ........ . Foreign Pilgrims at Koya San
Muslims have Mecca, Christians have Bethlehem, and Jews have Jerusalem. Travel 90 minutes by train from Osaka to Wakayama Prefecture and you will reach Koya-san, where thousands of Japanese descend annually in the hope that they will be touched by the spirit of Kobo Daishi, the Buddhist saint whose tomb lies at the top of the mountain.
http://www.kansaiscene.com/2004_07/html/travel2.shtml

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

The Japan Times: Dec. 10, 2004
(no longer availabel online)

Getting holy in Wakayama
By MARIKO YASUMOTO

Since ancient times, pilgrims have ventured into heavily forested mountains in Wakayama Prefecture to visit Koyasan, the headquarters of the Shingon sect of esoteric Buddhism. This is regarded as one of the most sacred places in Japan, lying in an alpine basin at an altitude of about 800 meters, and it attracts more than 1 million worshippers and tourists every year.

Admiring the awe-inspiring monastic buildings and outstanding natural beauty there, you will see why Koyasan is loved by so many people and why it was added to UNESCO's World Heritage List last July.

Legend has it that more than a thousand years ago -- at a port in Ningbo, China -- Kukai (later to be known as Kobo Daishi　空海、弘法大師) threw a sankosho (a symbolic Buddhist pestle), which had been given to him by his master Keika, into the sky toward the east, with a wish that it would land in the ideal place for him to begin preaching Shingon Buddhism. On returning to Japan, Kukai looked for the sankosho and finally found it hanging on a pine tree in Koyasan in the year 816. After more than 1,200 years, the pine tree is still revered by monks and visited by many tourists daily.

The pine tree has a bundle of three needle-shaped leaves, just like the sankosho, which has three prongs at each end. The tree stands tall in front of Konpon Daito, a 48.5-meter gorgeously colored pagoda situated in Danjo Garan, an area that hosts many seminaries for esoteric practices. In Garan, the chances are fairly high that you will come across ascetic monks reciting Buddhist sutras.

Across a large parking lot from Danjo Garan is Kongobuji, which is the official headquarters of some 3,600 Shingon Buddhist temples in Japan. The original temple of Kongobuji was built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598) in memory of his mother.
The gorgeous paintings on sliding doors in the temple's rooms must be seen. The paintings include those from the famous Kano painting school from the Edo Period (1603-1867). The doors in the Yanaginoma (Willow Room) are decorated with the painter Kano Tansai's depictions of willow trees. Warrior Toyotomi Hidetsugu (1568-1595), who was exiled to Koyasan on orders from his uncle Hideyoshi, committed seppuku (ritual suicide) in this room.

Beautiful pink rhododendron are in full bloom in the inner-court area in early summer, (Photo from Gabi Greve)




and you can also admire Japan's largest rock garden, which measures 2,340 sq. meters. The shape of the rocks represents a pair of dragons emerging from a mass of clouds.
Another must-see spot in Koyasan is the Okunoin Cemetery, which is in dense forest to the east of the city. Inside the cemetery is Kobo Daishi Gobyo, a mausoleum where Kobo Daishi -- Kukai's posthumous honorific name -- rests in eternal meditation.

Lining the 2-km approach are some 300,000 tombstones, including those of historically important figures, such as Oda Nobunaga and Takeda Shingen, both feudal warlords from the Sengoku Period (1467-1568).

The path toward the mausoleum is shrouded by hundreds-of-years-old giant cedar trees, which add to the tranquil spirit of the cemetery. Okunoin's tallest tombstone -- at 10 meters high -- marks the grave built for the wife of Tokugawa Hidetada (1579-1632), the second Tokugawa shogun, and it is believed that it took as long as three years to build it.

The interior of Torodo (the Lantern Hall, tooroo doo 灯篭堂),
located at the end of the approach, just short of Gobyo (go-byoo), is illuminated by about 20,000 lanterns of various sizes. You can take a different route to leave, heading toward the Nakanohashi parking lot. You will see modern gravestones on this path, including corporate graves such as a coffee cup-shaped stone for UCC Ueshima Coffee Co. or a television-shaped one for Sharp Corp. But the strangest gravestone must be the one built by a termite exterminator to console the spirits of white ants. It says "White Ants. Rest in Peace." (see below)

If you want to stay here, then lodging is available at 53 of the 117 temples in the Koyasan Basin. At such shukubo, tourists can enjoy the traditional vegetarian diet of monks. Goma-dofu (sesame bean curd) and Koya-dofu (freeze-dried bean curd), both local specialties, are especially worth a try. Guests can also experience Ajikan meditation at some shukubo temples. Ajikan is a meditation method of Shingon Buddhism, practiced in a leg-folded sitting position. When checking out shukubo Web sites, you might be surprised about the temples' commercial approach, as one would like to believe that such a spiritual place as Koyasan should avoid such influences.
But today's shukubo management dates back to the Nanboku-cho Period (1336-1392) or Muromachi Period (1392-1573), at a time when a huge number of pilgrims were traveling to Koyasan.
Around 1400, the Koyasan management prohibited shukubo temples from aggressively touting pilgrims from the Kyushu and Chugoku regions by operating checkpoints (sekisho). Some shukubo temples were using bribes to attract pilgrims.
"This illustrates a severe battle among Koyasan temples over regional supremacy at that time," said Yasunori Koyama, a professor at Tezukayama University who specializes in Japanese medieval history. "Apparently, shukubo management has been a huge financial resource for Koyasan."
Some shukubo temples also used to negotiate to decide which shukubo would accommodate which noble or shogun family, and such rights were often traded between temples. The tradition still remains at some shukubo, according to Koyama.

Koyasan is a unique Buddhist town. For those who love esoteric Buddhism (mikkyo), visiting this place is a must. For those who don't know much about it, this is still well worth a visit. And Koyasan is just two hours by train from central Osaka.

A trip in Koyasan will be twice as much fun with a local guide. If you are interested in a guided tour, contact the Koyasan Tourist Association at (0736) 56-2616 or the Wakayama Interpreter Volunteer Group at (0736) 73-5606. The group offers a foreign-language guide service for about 3,000 yen (transportation expense for the guide.)


xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Graves of famous Japanese at Koya San


It takes a while to load, but you get a good impression of the walk in the woods along the path to the Oku no In, innermost sanctuary.
http://inoues.net/club/okunoin.html

places to stay in the Temple Grounds：Shukuboo
宿坊案内

A gravestone for the souls of white ants, killed by pesticide.
Erected by the company that produces the pesticide (to placate their own soul???)

The white ants are great enemies of the wooden Japanese homes. They start eating the foundation or the roof beams and ruin it all, making it unsafe to stay in the house. When you detect them (usually you hear them gnawing on a quiet night) you have to inform the authorities, because your neighbour's home is in danger too. The official exterminators come to take care of the problem. And to placate their soul, I guess, they erected this stone at the All Japanese Graveyard:

.. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . . . yasuraka ni nemure - rest in peace





:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::


.. .. .. .. .. .. .. Oku no In 奥の院

The most holy place in Koya San is the Innermost Temple, where Kobo Daishi is sitting in his eternal rest.
In front of his grave-temple is the Hall of the Lamps ,Tooroo-doo (the Lantern Hal l灯篭堂).

You can rent a lantern for a period of time as a religious service to a lost soul or relative. For three days you pay 1000 yen, for a whole year you have to deposit around 500 Dollars. The ceiling of the hall is full with these lamps and when you climb down, rows and rows of lanterns are hanging there, with the name of the deceased and the time until it is still burning. Needless to say, the hall is always quite warm with these many natural flames.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

Approach to the Oku no In, more pictures
http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Oak/9720/myweb1_006.htm
http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Oak/9720/myweb1_005.htm
http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Oak/9720/myweb1_008.htm

Lantern Festival at the Lantern Hall

.. .. .. .. .. Inside the Lantern Hall



Two sacred fires, which reportedly have been burning since the 11th century, are kept safely inside. The mausoleum itself is behind the Lantern Hall. Buy a white candle, light it, and wish for anything you want. Then sit back and watch respectfully as Buddhists come to chant and pay respects to one of Japan's greatest Buddhist leaders.
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/mtkoya/2930010029.html

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::


Offerings of Light、toomyoo kuyoo 灯明供養

The offering of Light, together with Incense, Flowers, Water and other things to please the deities is a custom coming from India whith the spread of Buddhism. Toomyoo (灯明), in Sanskrit “diipa”. First, oil from plants was used, later candles and nowadays of course electric lights are used.

The symbolism of light in the Buddhist context is to “tear away the darkness of illusion through the all-penetrating light of the Buddha”. The Buddha light brings wisdom and compassion to all humankind. At the end of your life, it will lead you to the paradise in the west.

The well-known “Hall of Lanterns” (see above) at Mt. Koya is a place for the offering of light.
Legend knows that the Monk Kishin in 1016 saw a bright light on the moss in front of the mausoleum of Kuukai one night. So he decided to put up a candle at this place and this first light of his candle has never seized to burn, a never-ending light (kiezu no toomyoo　消えずの灯明) until today.

In Esoteric Buddhism there are special Bodhisattvas for the Offerings (kuyoo bosatsu　供養菩薩), one of them is the one for light offerings, Kongootoo Bosatsu （金剛灯菩薩）. Some temples have a “never-eding light” (jooyatoo　じょうやとう)　
http://kids.city.hikone.shiga.jp/kawaraban/05.html
(mujintoo 無尽灯). After a Buddhist burrial it is customary to keep this light up for 49 days.

There are many rituals where Light Offerings play an important part at the temples, for example the “festival of ten thousand lights” (mandoo-e　万灯会) at the Temple Toodai-ji on August 15, during the O-Bon Festival period. The more than 2500 graves around the temple are all lit with candles.

. . . CLICK here for Photos !


Maybe the many fire festivals, hi-matsuri　火祭り are also connected to this belief in the offering of light to the deities.

On the altar, the most simple arrangement of tools is the
“three objects” mitsu gusoku三具足、an incense burner, a candle holder and a flower vase.

http://www.web-toku.com/gusoku/kachou.jpg

Next we have the “four objects” yotsu gusoku 四具足with two flower vases, one on each side. This constellation is very seldom。

Five objects, go gusoku　五具足, is a usage for large ceremonies. Two candle holders at both sides. Two vases next and one incense burner in the middle.

http://www.yasuda-shokeido.co.jp/shogon/shogon07.html

The Lotus Sutra, Hokke-kyoo　法華経、describes various deities as Bosatsu concerned with light offerings.

Jookoobutsu定光仏
Toomyoobutsu燈明仏
Niman Toomyoobutsu二萬燈明仏
Sanman Toomyoobutsu三萬燈明仏
Nichi-gatsu Toomyoobutsu日月燈明仏, the Sun and Moon Light Offering Buddhas
Myookoo Bosatsu妙光菩薩

They all belong to a grouping of “secret Buddhas for 30 days” (sanjuunichi hibutsu 三十日秘仏).
http://i-otter.hp.infoseek.co.jp/hon/30.html


Buddha of Burning Light,
Dapankara, Dipankara (Dpankara) Buddha大和竭羅

Megha, a young disciple of Brahmanism, was given a prophecy by Dpankara Buddha that he would become Buddha, an enlightened one, in the next world. The original word for 燃燈 is Dpankara, which is also translated as 定光 or 錠光 in Chinese. This tale is generally called the Dpankara jataka.

Read more about this Buddha here:
http://www.miho.or.jp/booth/html/doccon/00001329e.htm
http://www.miho.or.jp/booth/html/artimg/00002100_01e.htm

Dipankara, the Buddha of Fixed Light

The Dipankara Buddha is said to predate the historical Buddha in a world cycle long past and to have foretold his coming. He is sometimes equated with Adibuddha, the "original Buddha." Since about the 17th century his cult has been popular with Nepalese Buddhists who consider him a protector of merchants and associate him with alms-giving. One of Dipankara's local names, the "Samyak god", refers to an alms-giving festival where images such as this one are displayed, as well as images with wooden or basketry bodies and metal heads and hands. Basketry images consist of a large, hollow torso covered with clothing and ornaments capable of concealing a man who animates it in procession.
http://www.asianart.com/patan-museum/e4.html

.. .. .. .. ..

The Celestial Tejaprabha Buddha of Bright Light and the five planets,
Cave 17, Dunhuang, ink and colours on silk



Copyright © The British Library Board
http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/features/silkroad/tejalge.html

Cross-Currents in East Asian Buddhism and Buddhist Art Conference Abstracts

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

This concludes my excursion to the world of Light Offerings.


To learn more about light and stone lanterns, read Mark Schumacher here:
http://onmarkproductions.com/html/ishidoro.shtml


:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::


炎天の空美しや高野山　
enten no sora utsukushi ya Kooyasan

the blazing sky
is so beautiful -
Mount Koya Monastery

Takahama Kyoshi 虚子
Tr. Gabi Greve

. enten - blazing sky and haiku


:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::


For a little extra joy, look at my photo album with great pictures of Koya-San
. Koya San, Photoalbum .


Read some of my haiku about Koya-San
Koya-san in Wakayama



Light offerings are also many kigo for Haiku.
... Light offerings ...


:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::　

[ . BACK to WORLDKIGO . TOP . ]
[ . BACK to DARUMA　MUSEUM　TOP . ]

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::